A Comprehensive Guide to Bookbinding: From Sewing Signatures to Casing In
Creating your own books is a rewarding and creative endeavor that combines artistry with craftsmanship. This comprehensive guide will take you through the entire bookbinding process, from sewing signatures into a text block to preparing the spine and finally casing the text block into a cover. By the end of this guide, you'll have a beautifully bound book that's ready for use. Let's get started!
Table of Contents
Part 1: Sewing Signatures into a Text Block
One of the foundational techniques in bookbinding is sewing signatures using the French Link Stitch. This method provides a sturdy structure and adds a traditional aesthetic to your book.
Materials Needed
Bookbinding thread (e.g., French Linen, Irish Linen)
Bookbinding tape (e.g., Cotton Tape, Linen Tape)
Weight (to hold signatures in place)
Awl or thick needle (for punching holes)
Awl guide (optional but helpful)
Cutting mat (or thick material to protect your work surface)
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Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Prepare Your Signatures
Gather Your Signatures: A signature (or section) is a group of folded sheets of paper. The number of sheets per signature (often four) and the total number of signatures depend on the desired thickness and size of your book.
Fold the Paper: Fold each sheet in half using a bone folder for crisp folds. Assemble the folded sheets into signatures.
Press Under Weight: Place the signatures under a weight before folding for best results.
Step 2: Measure and Mark
Create an Awl Guide: An awl guide helps standardize the spacing across all signatures and saves time. Alternatively, create a template to punch holes in each signature individually.
Mark the Holes: Using a ruler and pencil, measure and mark evenly spaced points along the spine of each signature. You'll need:
Two holes for each tape
Two kettle stitch holes (one at each end of the spine)
Step 3: Punch Holes in the Signatures
Punch the Holes: Using an awl or thick needle, punch holes through each marked point on the spine. Ensure the holes are aligned across all signatures.
Step 4: Sewing the Signatures
Thread Your Needle: Cut a length of thread about three to six times the height of your book and thread your curved needle.
Begin Sewing:
First Signature: Insert the needle from the outside through the first kettle stitch hole at one end of the spine. Leave a few inches of thread outside to tie off later.
Sew Through Tape Holes: Alternate in and out of the tape holes along the spine until you exit through the opposite kettle stitch hole.
Add Tapes:
Insert tapes between the tape holes, under the thread that spans between them.
Second Signature:
Place the second signature on top of the first.
Insert the needle into the second signature's kettle stitch hole from the outside in.
Sew back through the tape holes, linking stitches as described below.
Step 5: The French Link Stitch
Create the Link:
Before pulling the thread tight, pass the needle under the thread linking the two tape holes of the previous signature.
This creates the "link" in the French Link Stitch.
Repeat for Each Hole:
Continue this process for each hole in the signature.
Step 6: Adding More Signatures
Repeat the Process:
Continue adding signatures, sewing, and linking stitches until all signatures are sewn together.
Secure the Thread:
When you reach the last kettle stitch hole of the last signature, make a simplified kettle stitch by passing the needle under the stitch between the previous two signatures.
Tie a double knot to secure.
Step 7: Finishing the Text Block
Trim Excess Thread: Ensure all knots are secure and trim any excess thread.
Press the Text Block: Use a bone folder to press down the folds of each signature, ensuring the text block lies flat and even.
Part 2: Preparing the Spine for Binding
With your text block sewn, the next step is to prepare the spine for casing. Proper spine preparation ensures the durability and functionality of your finished book.
Materials You'll Need
Text block (sewn from Part 1)
Japanese paper strip (cut to the width of the spine)
Western paper strip (also cut to the width of the spine)
Mull fabric (cut to three times the width of the spine)
Jade 403 PVA glue
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Secure the Text Block
Place in Book Press:
Insert the text block into the book press with the spine protruding about an inch.
Ensure the side without brass strips is used so the spine is accessible.
Tighten the Press:
Secure the text block by tightening the wingnuts on the press.
Step 2: Apply the First Layer of Glue
Coat the Spine:
Use a glue brush to apply a thin layer of Jade 403 PVA glue to the spine.
Make sure to saturate any binding tapes thoroughly.
Dry Completely:
Allow the glue to dry fully before proceeding.
Step 3: Apply the Japanese Paper
Second Layer of Glue:
Once the first layer is dry, apply a second layer of glue.
Attach Japanese Paper:
Cut the Japanese paper strip slightly shorter than the spine length.
Lay it along the spine and mold it using your fingers and bone/Teflon folder.
Dry Fully:
Wait until the Japanese paper is completely dry.
Step 4: Apply the Western Paper
Third Layer of Glue:
Apply another layer of glue over the Japanese paper.
Attach Western Paper:
Cut the Western paper strip to match the Japanese paper.
Apply it to the spine, burnishing with the bone folder for a snug fit.
Step 5: (Optional) Add Endbands
Attach Endbands:
If desired, add endbands to the top and bottom of the spine.
Apply them after the Western paper but before the mull fabric.
Step 6: Apply the Mull Fabric
Fourth Layer of Glue:
Apply glue over the spine (and endbands if added).
Attach Mull Fabric:
Cut the mull fabric to the same length as the paper strips.
Center it over the spine, ensuring equal overhang on both sides.
Press down to adhere.
Thread Tapes Through Mull (if using tapes):
Use a scalpel to make slits in the mull above each tape.
Thread the tapes through the slits, interlocking them with the layers.
Burnish the Mull:
Use the bone folder to smooth out the mull fabric.
Step 7: Final Touches
Trim Excess:
Trim any excess length on the tapes or mull fabric.
Dry the Spine:
Allow the spine to dry completely before moving on to casing.
Part 3: Casing In the Text Block
With your text block sewn and spine prepared, the final step is casing it into a cover. This process brings everything together, giving your book a finished and professional look.
Materials You'll Need
Text block/book block with a prepared spine (from Part 2).
Bookcloth (we're using paper-backed bookcloth, but starched bookcloth works as well).
Two pieces of binders board (cut to the width of the text block with an additional ⅛” in height)
Bristol board (cut to the same height as the boards and the width of the text block’s spine)
Non-stick material (like silicone release paper, for interleaving)
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Preparing the Cover
Draft the Layout:
On the back of your bookcloth, draw an outline leaving a 1-inch margin around the edges.
Leave a ¼” gap between the binders boards and the spine piece (bristol board).
Glue the First Board:
Place the first binders board on silicone release paper.
Apply glue generously, starting from the center outward.
Place it onto the outlined section of the bookcloth.
Burnish with a bone folder to remove air bubbles.
Glue the Spine Piece:
Apply glue to the bristol board.
Adhere it to the spine section, ensuring it's aligned.
Burnish to secure.
Glue the Second Board:
Repeat the gluing and burnishing process for the second binders board.
Step 2: Trimming the Corners
Mark and Cut:
Fold each corner of the bookcloth up at a 90-degree angle.
Mark the outer corners with a pencil.
Using a straightedge, draw a line at a 45-degree angle from the corner.
Trim with a knife.
Note: Small imperfections will be covered later.
Step 3: Folding and Gluing the Bookcloth
Pre-Crease Folds:
Use your bone folder to crease all edges of the bookcloth.
Glue the Side Flaps:
Apply glue to the side flaps.
Fold them over the boards and burnish.
Tuck the Corners:
Use the tip of the bone folder to tuck the bookcloth neatly around the corners.
Glue the Top and Bottom Flaps:
Apply glue and fold them over, paying special attention to the spine area.
Burnish to ensure a smooth finish.
Step 4: Let the Cover Dry
Dry Under Weight:
Prop the cover upright.
Place it under a weight or in a book press until fully dry.
Step 5: Casing In the Text Block
Position the Text Block:
Place the text block inside the cover.
Adjust until margins are even on all sides.
Prepare for Gluing:
Open the cover carefully.
Insert two layers of silicone release paper between the endpaper and the mull fabric.
Glue the Mull Fabric:
Apply glue to the mull fabric (and tapes if present).
Remove Excess Paper:
Remove the first layer of release paper to prevent glue seepage.
Close the Cover:
Gently close the cover.
Burnish along the spine groove with the bone folder.
Repeat on the Other Side:
Flip the book and repeat the process on the other side.
Step 6: Pressing and Drying
Place in Book Press:
Position the book in a press, ensuring alignment.
Tighten gently to keep margins even.
Allow to Dry:
Let the book dry in the press for a few hours.
Step 7: Final Touches
Check the Book:
Remove from the press.
Ensure the book opens smoothly and the spine is secure.
Glue the Endpapers:
Insert silicone release paper between the first page and the text block.
Apply glue to the first page from the center outward.
Press the cover down.
Repeat on the other side.
Final Pressing:
Return the book to the press.
Allow it to dry overnight.
Conclusion
Congratulations! You've successfully completed the entire bookbinding process—from sewing signatures and preparing the spine to casing in your text block. By mastering these techniques, you've created a durable and beautiful book that showcases your craftsmanship. Enjoy your handmade book, and happy bookbinding!