How to Assemble Your TALAS × Bitter Melon Bindery Sketchbook Kit

This lay-flat sketchbook design combines a soft cover book block with a reusable hard cover case and elastic closure. Once you fill the pages, you can easily create a new book block and reuse the case — making it both beautiful and functional.

This guide, adapted from Bitter Melon Bindery's video tutorial, walks you step by step through the assembly process using the TALAS × Bitter Melon Bindery Sketchbook Kit. The kit includes everything pre-cut and measured, with carefully selected high-quality materials.

Materials & Tools

Included in the TALAS x Bitter Melon Sketchbook Kit

(x32) Carta Pura paper to 6.25" x 17.75" (grain SHORT)

(x2) Tsumugi Paper 6.25" x 17.75" (grain SHORT)

(x1) Tsumugi Paper 8.875" x 6.5" (grain SHORT)

(x1) Bookcloth 29" x 9"

(x1) Bookcloth 6.25" x 2.75"

(x2) Davey Board 8.875" x 6.5" (grain SHORT)

(x1) Davey Board 13/16" x 6.5" (grain LONG)

(x1) Decorative Paper 6.25" x 20" (grain SHORT)

(x1) Elastic 11" long

(x1) Japanese tissue (2" x 1")

(x1) French Linen thread #25 (2yd)

Additional Recommended Tools (Included in the TALAS x Bitter Melon Tool Kit)

Other Tools and Materials Required

Pressing equipment (press boards & weights, book press)
Scrap stiff paper, at least 7.5 inches long by 3-4 inches wide
Metal ruler
Pencil & eraser
Scissors
Waste paper
Cutting mat
2 strips of scrap thick cardstock, at least 9" long
¾” spacers for turn-ins
45/90 small triangle ruler (optional)
⅜” flat chisel + hammer (optional)
Microspatula (optional)

Step 1: Fold & Press Your Signatures (~1:10)

Take the pre-cut Carta Pura sheets from the kit. The sheets are already cut with the correct paper grain. The grain should run parallel to the spine and along the intended fold for the best lay-flat results.
Fold four sheets together at a time and crease the fold with the bone or teflon folder. Make eight signatures total.
Press the signatures under weight or in a nipping press for several hours (overnight is best). This process helps the folds hold their shape, which is essential for achieving a well-compressed spine and a neat, flat book.

Step 2: Prepare the Soft Covers (~7:00)

Fold oneTsumugi soft cover sheet in half and crease the fold with the bone or teflon folder. Repeat for the second sheet. The covers have the same dimensions as the signature sheets.
Place one folio at the front and the other at the back of your signatures. These will be the front and back covers, which will be sewn along with the book block.

Step 3: Make a Sewing Punching Guide (~7:50)

Prepare a strip of stiff paper, longer than the spine and about 3-4 inches wide. Fold the paper in half lengthwise, and crease with a bone or teflon folder.
Working on a cutting mat, open the guide and position it horizontally in front of you. Place a signature or soft cover on the guide, aligning the folds. Make a vertical cut on the upper half of the guide near the left side, ensuring the remaining section on the right is slightly longer than the fold of the signature. The short tab on the upper left will serve as a hook for punching holes.
Position the signature so that the left edge meets the vertical cut. Mark the sewing stations along the fold of the guide:
- One mark at right-side edge of the signature,
- Two marks, a half-inch from left- and right-side edges of the signature (for kettle stitches),
- Two marks spaced 1.5 inches apart, equidistant from the center (for French links)
Position the guide flush against the fold of each signature, then adjust it until the upper-left hook opens to meet the left edge of the signature. Using an awl, punch holes at the marks through both the guide and signature, angling the awl at 45 degrees. Optionally, place a scrap piece of card under the signatures as you punch. Repeat for the remaining signatures.
Hold all the signatures together and make sure all the holes are aligned at the spine. Hole alignment is important for achieving flush top and bottom edges of the book after the book block is sewn.

Step 4: Sew the Book Block (~9:10)

The included thread is about the length of the spine multiplied by ten signatures (including the soft covers). If you prefer, the thread can be waxed for better pliability. Thread one end with the needle. The book will be sewn from cover to cover, bottom to top. Each hole in the signatures will be referred to as a sewing station and numbered 1-4 from left to right with the spine facing you.
Pick up all but the last signature and flip them over in front of you. Try to not mix up the alignment of the holes as you sew. Starting from the outside of the signature, sew in through the 4th (right-most) station and pull the thread until there is a 2-inch tail.
Sew out through station 3, then sew in through station 2, and out through station 1. Hold the starting and working ends of the thread and pull taut.
Pick up a new signature and flip it onto the first. Sew in through station 1 of the new signature to the inside. Hold the signatures together with your non-dominant hand or consider placing a weight on the working signature to prevent shifting.
To sew the first French link, sew out through station 2 to the spine. Sew up behind the stitch on the previous signature, then sew through station 3 to the inside.
Sew out through station 4 to meet the starting end of the thread. Pull the working thread taught towards the right, then tie an overhand knot with both ends to connect the first two signatures together.
Pick up the third signature and flip it onto the working book. At a glance, match the alignment of the sewing stations. Sew in through station 4 of the new signature.
Sew out through station 3 to the spine. Create a French link by sewing up behind the stitch on the previous signature, then sew through station 2 to the inside.
Sew out through station 1 and pull the thread taut toward the left. Sew behind the stitch of the previous signature and pull to form a small loop. Sew up through the loop and pull taut. This creates your first kettle stitch, which locks the signatures together. Make a kettle stitch at the end of sewing each signature, and avoid over-tightening to maintain proper thread tension.
Continue in this sewing pattern until the last soft cover is sewn on and finished with a kettle stitch. Remove the needle.

TALAS Sewing Instructions (From Our French Link Stitch Guide)

Start at the back cover, sewing through each station, and continue through signatures in sequence using a French link stitch at the center.
Begin with the first signature. Consider placing a weight on the inner most folio to help keep the signature open as you sew and stop them from shifting. Insert the needle from the outside of the signature through the first (kettle stitch) hole on either end of the spine. Leave a few inches of thread outside the signature. You will be able to secure it with a knot once you have added the second signature and moved back through in the opposite direction. Alternate in and out of the (tape) holes along the first signature’s spine until you emerge from the opposite kettle stitch.
Insert the needle from the first signature into the second signature’s parallel kettle stitch hole, you will then move in the opposite direction. As you approach the tapes, you will link the signatures using a French Link Stitch as described...
1. Insert the needle through the second hole of the second signature from the outside in.
2. Before pulling the thread tight, pass the needle under the thread linking the two tape holes of the previous signature. This creates the "link" in the French link stitch.
3. Repeat this process for the remaining holes in the signature, linking each stitch to the previous one. See diagram below...
Once you reach the last kettle stitch hole of the second signature, double knot your thread to the tail of thread you left prior to sewing the first signature to secure the two together. Add the third signature. Insert the needle through the first kettle stitch hole of the third signature from the outside in. Repeat previous steps until you exit the second kettle stitch hole.
To link the third signature with the second one, pass the needle under the stitch between the corresponding holes of the first and second signatures. This linkage will act as a simplified kettle stitch. Continue this linking process for each hole.
Continue adding signatures and linking them until all signatures are sewn together.Once you reach the last kettle stitch hole of the second signature, double knot your thread to the tail of thread you left prior to sewing the first signature to secure the two together. Add the third signature. Insert the needle through the first kettle stitch hole of the third signature from the outside in. Repeat previous steps until you exit the second kettle stitch hole.
To link the third signature with the second one, pass the needle under the stitch between the corresponding holes of the first and second signatures. This linkage will act as a simplified kettle stitch. Continue this linking process for each hole.
Continue adding signatures and linking them until all signatures are sewn together.

Step 5: Glue the Spine (~14:40)

Pressing and gluing the spine will help stabilize the sewn signatures. Tap the book block on the desk along the spine to align the signatures. Place it between two press boards, checking that the spine remains aligned and square. The spine should stick out from the press boards by a few millimeters. Place a weight on top, about 10 pounds, and make sure the book doesn’t shift.
Use the tapered end of the bone folder to flatten the folds and close the holes along the spine to prevent glue seepage.
Apply PVA glue with a small brush across the spine, allowing it to saturate between stitches. Trim the thread ends to match the width of the spine and tuck them against the kettle stitches.
Let the glue dry to touch, then apply 1–2 additional coats. Let the glue binding dry completely in the press.
To glue on the spine cloth, mark the midpoints at the top and bottom edges of the cloth. Brush a thin layer of glue throughout the cloth and the book spine. Place the spine down onto the cloth, aligned at the midpoints. Press and pinch on the cloth with your fingers, and rub on with the teflon folder.

Step 6: Cut & Assemble the Case (~18:00)

Prepare your work station for gluing. On a clean surface, unroll the bookcloth and position it horizontally with the paper side up. Place a ¾-inch spacer on the left edge. Lay out the cover and spine boards.
Brush a thin layer of glue throughout the leftmost cover board and position it against the ¾-inch spacer, leaving even spacing at the top and bottom. Place the 5/16-inch spacer against the right side of the glued cover board. Glue on the spine board, aligned at the top and bottom. Place the 5/16-inch spacer against the right side of the spine board and glue down the remaining cover board.
Flip the cover over and rub the bookcloth with the long edge of the teflon folder using medium pressure. Gently score the hinges with the tip of the teflon folder. Teflon is softer than bone, allowing it to glide easily over materials and preventing burnishing. The cloth tabs will be turned in after the back pocket is marked.
Note: The 5/16-inch spacer can be cut from the card that was included in the yellow envelope of the kit.

Step 7: Create the Back Pocket (~21:20)

The back pocket will hold the book block in place. To begin, cut out triangles at the back cover on the top and bottom cloth edges by following section 21:24–21:55. Be sure to leave a small margin at the corners. These cuts help the cloth fold neatly around the board.
Trim the top and bottom cloth edges with the ¾-inch spacer. The left edge should already be ¾ inch wide.
To turn-in the bookcloth, cut the left edge corners at a 45 degree angle, leaving a few millimeters of excess. This tiny space should be slightly wider than the thickness of the board, and is important for neat turn-ins. Glue on the top and bottom tabs first, tuck in all four corners of the case, then glue on the left side tab.
The remaining Tsumugi card will serve as a stiffening structure for the pocket. Trim ¾ inch from the short edge and a millimeter from the long edge of the card.
Brush glue throughout the card and place it glue side up, flush against the back board from the rightedge, evenly spaced at the top and bottom. The thin spacing allows for the cloth to wrap around the card.
Hold the card firmly in place and carefully lay the cloth over it, quickly smoothing it with your palms. Use a teflon folder to rub it down, being careful not to get glue on the cloth.
Open the pocket and fold the cloth snugly over the card on each side, creasing them with a bone or teflon folder. Glue on the short edge. Trim the outer corners at a slight angle. Re-fold the long edges and press the corners flat. Test the pocket fit by folding it over the back board.

Step 8: Install the Elastic Closure (~25:40)

Mark and create two slots on the back cover board,1 inch from top, bottom, and right edges. The slots should be as wide as the elastic. The slots can be created with a ⅜-inch chisel and hammer, or a narrow knife.
Insert both ends of the elastic through the slots using a knife or micro spatula. Test the tension with the pocket closed and the book block in place. Adjust the elastic tension to your preference.
Carve and peel a small recess, about ½-inch long, into the back board until the elastic sits flush.
Cut the included Japanese tissue paper in half. Glue the elastic ends in place and secure with a patch of Japanese tissue and smooth with a teflon folder. Let dry as-is or under weight with acetate sheets.

Step 9: Line the Case (~29:30)

Cut the decorative marbled papers into three pieces: one 2.5 inch-strip for the spine, two panels for the inside covers (cut remaining paper in half ). Put the pieces on the case to check the placement.
Start by gluing the spine piece, centered and spaced evenly between the top and bottom. Glue the cover pieces one at a time, aligning them with the inner edge of the cover boards. Ensure there is an even cloth border around all edges of the decorative papers. The back cover may appear unfinished, but covering the elastic ends is what matters.
Let the case dry under press boards and weights for several hours or overnight to flatten.

Step 10: Final Assembly (~32:00)

Cut two strips of scrap card that are longer than the pocket. These will act as spacers to prevent the tabs from sticking during drying.
Brush glue onto the pocket tabs. You can be fairly generous since the cloth is absorbent, but avoid letting the glue pool.
Fold the pocket over and press the tabs down onto the cover. Make sure the tabs haven’t curled and that the right-side edge folds tightly without gaps. Use a folder to rub everything down smoothly. If you notice any lifting, add a touch more glue.
Slip the scrap card strips into the pocket to cover the tabs.
- Pull them out once to check for glue seepage, then replace with clean strips for drying. This ensures the proper spacing for the book block.
Place the pocket side under weights for at least half a day (overnight is even better).
Once dry, slip the back cover of the book block into the pocket. Your sketchbook is now complete.

Tips for Success

Always work with paper grain to improve durability and lay-flat function.
Don’t over-tighten kettle stitches — they should secure but not distort the spine.
Use pressing time to your advantage: signatures, glued spines, and lined cases all benefit from patient drying.
Note your materials and measurements inside the back page so you can easily make refills.

Congratulations — you’ve completed your TALAS × Bitter Melon Bindery Sketchbook! This refillable design gives you a durable, customizable sketchbook that grows with your art practice.

We’d love to see your finished books. Tag @talasonline and @bittermelonbindery on Instagram to share your creations.