Quarter Binding Cover & Casing-In — Khadi Book Block

Learn how to create a quarter binding cover and case in a prefabricated Khadi book block with this detailed, step‑by‑step guide. This timeless structure combines strength, flexibility, and elegance by pairing a cloth spine with decorative paper boards. Follow along with the video and written instructions to make a durable, visually striking book — perfect for journaling, sketching, or gifting.

Materials & Tools

Materials

Prefabricated Khadi book block, 5‑1/8" × 6‑3/16" with ½" spine (sewn and glued)
Davey binders board, 6‑3/16" × 5‑¼", 2 pieces
Bristol board strip, 5‑1/8" × ½"
Mull fabric strip, roughly 3" × 5"
Bookcloth for spine and corners, 3‑1/8" × 7‑1/4" and two 3" × 3" squares
Decorative cover paper, 5‑1/4" × 7‑1/4", 2 pieces

Adhesives & interleaving

Jade 403 PVA adhesive
Silicone release paper or scrap paper for interleaving

Tools

Before You Start — layout & measuring

Mark the cloth and boards now: On your spine cloth, rule the top and bottom margins (¾"), two ¼" gutters for board placement, and the center ½" spine space — these marks make alignment quick and precise during assembly. Transfer those layout lines lightly to each binder’s board as well.
Prepare decorative panels: Trim two decorative panels to 5‑1/4" × 7‑1/4". On the outer (fore‑edge) side of each panel cut a 3" isosceles right triangle from the outer corner so the cloth can wrap around the board corner cleanly. Cut two 3" × 3" squares to bisect later into corner triangles.
Set up workspace: Keep scrap paper or silicone release paper handy to protect surfaces. Put your book block under light weight so it’s stable while you apply mull.

Step‑by‑Step Guide

Step 1 — Prep the Khadi book block (apply the mull)

Place the Khadi book block under weight or in a press so it will not shift while you work. This keeps your sewing and spine geometry square during casing.
Load the brush with a thin, even coat of Jade 403 and apply to the spine where the mull will lie. Aim for complete coverage but avoid puddling or drips.
Center the mull so it overhangs equally on either side of the spine (approximately 3" wide with about 1¼" overhang each side given the measurements). Lay it down gently and use the Teflon or bone folder to burnish from the center toward each edge to remove air pockets and ensure full contact.
With your fingertips, pinch the mull into the glue along the edges to seat the fabric tightly to the spine. Wipe any glue squeeze‑out with a dampened rag if needed.
Leave the block to set until the mull is tacky/dry to the touch before proceeding (consult adhesive manufacturer's guidance).

Pro tip: If the mull lifts at the edges after drying, re‑adhere with a thin bead of glue and burnish again while tacky.

Step 2 — Paste the decorative panels to the boards

Place a binder’s board on a protected work surface. Brush Jade 403 outward from your layout marks on the board—working away from the center—to reduce the risk of glue creeping under the decorative panel edges.
On the decorative panel, brush glue along the long inner edge that will contact the board and add a light bead around the perimeter, concentrating at corners. This gives extra strength where the cloth overlap will sit.
Align the panel to your marks and lay it down in one smooth motion. Press firmly with your hands, then burnish with the folder to seat the paper and expel air.
Make the corner triangles: bisect a 3" square into two triangles. Brush glue on the long edges and position each triangle to cover the exposed board corner, allowing them to slightly overlap the decorative panel for a neat seam.
Repeat for the second board, making sure the two boards mirror one another precisely so the final book will sit squarely inside the cover.

Step 3 — Attach the spine cloth and paste down the bristol board

With both boards covered and burnished, brush a thin coat of glue on the inside long edge of the first board and along the corresponding long edge of the spine cloth. Work from the board edge inward so glue does not smear onto the decorative panel face.
Align the board with your spine cloth layout marks and press into place. Burnish the seam so it sits flat and tight.
Slide the bristol board strip into the marked ½" spine gap. The bristol provides a firm hinge that helps the book open without excessive stress on the cloth.
Repeat the glue and placement sequence for the second board so both boards are connected by the cloth with the bristol centered in the spine.

Note: Keep glue off the visible face of the decorative paper. If any glue squeezes out, gently lift a corner and clean with a damp cloth before it skins over.

Step 4 — Trim cloth corners, pre‑fold, and turn in margins

Fold each board corner up and mark where the board meets the cloth. Draw a 45° guideline and trim the cloth at that angle with a sharp knife. Leave a small margin (a few millimeters) so the corner is fully covered when turned in.
Pre‑fold the margins using the bone or Teflon folder: decorative paper margins first, then the cloth. Take particular care around the 90° turns and the little pocket formed by the spine—this pocket needs to remain flexible.
Tuck and press the corners using the folder tip to keep the corner neat. Apply glue to the turn‑in margins and press down, starting with the decorative paper ribbon then the cloth. Burnish each area flat as you go.
Once all margins are turned in and smoothed, place the assembled cover under weight or in a press and allow the glue to dry thoroughly.

Pro tip: If the cloth frays while trimming, apply a tiny bead of glue to the raw edge and let it dry to prevent further fraying before turning in.

Step 5 — Casing in the block

When the cover is dry, open it and center the Khadi book block inside. Check that head‑ and tail‑margins are even and that the block sits squarely in the pocket.
Slip a sheet of silicone release paper or scrap between the mull and the first page. This protects the first leaf while you apply glue.
Brush a thin, even coat of Jade 403 onto the exposed mull. Remove the protective scrap and, with hands or the folder, gently close the front cover onto the glued mull. Burnish along the hinge to ensure the mull seats into the boards evenly.
Repeat for the rear mull: interleave scrap, glue, remove scrap, close, and burnish.
Place the cased‑in book back in the press or under weight, aligning the grooves and edges carefully. Allow the assembly to dry for several hours or overnight—follow the adhesive manufacturer's cure recommendations.

Reminder: Maintain alignment as the glue sets; misalignment at this stage is difficult to correct later.

Step 6 — Paste down the endpapers and finish

Once the casing is fully dry, remove the book from the press. Insert scrap paper under the first free leaf, then brush a thin, even layer of adhesive on the pastedown area of the endpaper.
Remove the scrap and carefully close the cover, pressing the endpaper to the board. Smooth with the folder to remove bubbles and ensure a good bond.
Repeat for the other side.
Return the book to the press or lay it under weight and let it dry overnight for best results.

Troubleshooting & Tips

Bumpy board or air pockets: Re‑lift the paper immediately and re‑burnish from the center outward; if glue has set, apply a microscopic amount of fresh adhesive and press under weight.
Cloth lifting at spine edges: Use a thin bead of adhesive under the lift, clamp gently with a small weight and allow to dry.
Corners not sitting flush: Trim slightly less at first — it’s easier to remove more than to replace trimmed material. Use the folder tip to tuck corners while adhesive is tacky.
Glue squeeze‑out: Keep silicone release paper nearby and blot any excess with a damp cloth before it skins over.

Finishing Notes & Care

Allow the book to cure fully (overnight under weight) before extensive handling.
Store the finished volume upright on a shelf, out of direct sunlight, and in a stable humidity environment to avoid warping.